build a Plexi-Glass CPU Fan Duct

Control: management of fans, temp/rpm monitoring via soft/hardware

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evalachovic
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 5:25 pm
Location: Los Angeles

build a Plexi-Glass CPU Fan Duct

Post by evalachovic » Wed Jan 19, 2005 11:54 am

I ran across a plan for building a fan duct from the front fan back to the CPU. This avoid opening up a hole in the side of the case that funnels noise out of the case and into our ears.

If I give it a try, I'll add some foam or rubber to isolate the plexiglass tube from the chasis to avoid vibration.

Here's the link:

http://www.overclockersclub.com/guides/fanduct.php

Thunder
Posts: 168
Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:06 pm
Location: Bay Area Ca.

Post by Thunder » Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:47 pm

Cool duct. Looks great very professional.
I made one out of 80mm dryer ducting but it looks bad.
I have some scrap plexi in my garage anyone know an easy way to cut it?

hofffam
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Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 6:18 am
Location: Texas

Post by hofffam » Wed Jan 19, 2005 2:40 pm

I can think of several ways to cut plexiglass or similar plastics:

1. table saw with fine tooth blade
2. jig saw/sabre saw, blades for plastic are available
3. nibbler
4. metal snips if the plastic is thin enough

Thunder
Posts: 168
Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:06 pm
Location: Bay Area Ca.

Post by Thunder » Wed Jan 19, 2005 4:35 pm

thx for the ideas
Table saw would work, bit of over kill though, and I need a blade.

Anyone tried the score and snap technique?

DanceMan
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Location: Burnaby, BC, Canada

Post by DanceMan » Wed Jan 19, 2005 6:04 pm

1. table saw with fine tooth blade
Or a circular saw. It works very well. There is a correct feed speed that gives you a clean edge. I think it was slow, but it was about 30 years ago. :)

ultraboy
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Post by ultraboy » Thu Jan 20, 2005 6:29 am

Thunder wrote:Anyone tried the score and snap technique?
Score and snap works well with plexi - for a straight line anyway. You need to leave some area on both sides of the score line to put your hands on in order to snap it clean in one go.

Krispy
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Location: S.E. England

Post by Krispy » Thu Jan 20, 2005 7:00 am

If using a jigsaw, run it slow as a fast blade can melt it & it can re-seal itself behind the blade. This a real pain in the a*se & messy too! :x

A nice duct, cheers for the link!

hofffam
Posts: 173
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 6:18 am
Location: Texas

Post by hofffam » Thu Jan 20, 2005 10:59 am

Krispy's point is a good one in general when working with plastics. High speed, whether sawing or drilling, can melt the plastic and make a mess of things. Safety can be a problem too if the blade sticks to the plastic due to melting. If you have a table saw - chances are good that a typical "combo" or crosscut blade will do a decent job. The advantage of the table saw of course is speed and accuracy.

DanceMan
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Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Burnaby, BC, Canada

Post by DanceMan » Thu Jan 20, 2005 12:01 pm

If you have a table saw - chances are good that a typical "combo" or crosscut blade will do a decent job.
A carbide blade, and the more teeth the better.

mr pink
Posts: 70
Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 4:27 am

Post by mr pink » Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:15 pm

I've always scored and snapped plexi - you can buy a blade for a regular utility knife.

Dont saws melt as they go?

hofffam
Posts: 173
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 6:18 am
Location: Texas

Post by hofffam » Thu Jan 20, 2005 3:53 pm

My table saw (a 10 inch Sears) doesn't melt the plastic. The carbide blade just takes little chips out of the plastic as it cuts. Melting occurs when there is a lot of surface area rubbing the plastic as it goes. My saw has a carbide 60 tooth finish blade and I use it to cut PVC pipe, laminate, and "lexan" (plexiglass-like) without any melting problems.

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