Control: management of fans, temp/rpm monitoring via soft/hardware
Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Lawrence Lee
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evalachovic
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 5:25 pm
- Location: Los Angeles
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by evalachovic » Wed Jan 19, 2005 11:54 am
I ran across a plan for building a fan duct from the front fan back to the CPU. This avoid opening up a hole in the side of the case that funnels noise out of the case and into our ears.
If I give it a try, I'll add some foam or rubber to isolate the plexiglass tube from the chasis to avoid vibration.
Here's the link:
http://www.overclockersclub.com/guides/fanduct.php
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Thunder
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:06 pm
- Location: Bay Area Ca.
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by Thunder » Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:47 pm
Cool duct. Looks great very professional.
I made one out of 80mm dryer ducting but it looks bad.
I have some scrap plexi in my garage anyone know an easy way to cut it?
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hofffam
- Posts: 173
- Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 6:18 am
- Location: Texas
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by hofffam » Wed Jan 19, 2005 2:40 pm
I can think of several ways to cut plexiglass or similar plastics:
1. table saw with fine tooth blade
2. jig saw/sabre saw, blades for plastic are available
3. nibbler
4. metal snips if the plastic is thin enough
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Thunder
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:06 pm
- Location: Bay Area Ca.
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by Thunder » Wed Jan 19, 2005 4:35 pm
thx for the ideas
Table saw would work, bit of over kill though, and I need a blade.
Anyone tried the score and snap technique?
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DanceMan
- Posts: 287
- Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
- Location: Burnaby, BC, Canada
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by DanceMan » Wed Jan 19, 2005 6:04 pm
1. table saw with fine tooth blade
Or a circular saw. It works very well. There is a correct feed speed that gives you a clean edge. I think it was slow, but it was about 30 years ago.
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ultraboy
- *Lifetime Patron*
- Posts: 547
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2004 5:02 pm
- Location: Bangkok Thailand
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by ultraboy » Thu Jan 20, 2005 6:29 am
Thunder wrote:Anyone tried the score and snap technique?
Score and snap works well with plexi - for a straight line anyway. You need to leave some area on both sides of the score line to put your hands on in order to snap it clean in one go.
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Krispy
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 8:24 am
- Location: S.E. England
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by Krispy » Thu Jan 20, 2005 7:00 am
If using a jigsaw, run it slow as a fast blade can melt it & it can re-seal itself behind the blade. This a real pain in the a*se & messy too!
A nice duct, cheers for the link!
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hofffam
- Posts: 173
- Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 6:18 am
- Location: Texas
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by hofffam » Thu Jan 20, 2005 10:59 am
Krispy's point is a good one in general when working with plastics. High speed, whether sawing or drilling, can melt the plastic and make a mess of things. Safety can be a problem too if the blade sticks to the plastic due to melting. If you have a table saw - chances are good that a typical "combo" or crosscut blade will do a decent job. The advantage of the table saw of course is speed and accuracy.
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DanceMan
- Posts: 287
- Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
- Location: Burnaby, BC, Canada
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by DanceMan » Thu Jan 20, 2005 12:01 pm
If you have a table saw - chances are good that a typical "combo" or crosscut blade will do a decent job.
A carbide blade, and the more teeth the better.
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mr pink
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 4:27 am
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by mr pink » Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:15 pm
I've always scored and snapped plexi - you can buy a blade for a regular utility knife.
Dont saws melt as they go?
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hofffam
- Posts: 173
- Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 6:18 am
- Location: Texas
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by hofffam » Thu Jan 20, 2005 3:53 pm
My table saw (a 10 inch Sears) doesn't melt the plastic. The carbide blade just takes little chips out of the plastic as it cuts. Melting occurs when there is a lot of surface area rubbing the plastic as it goes. My saw has a carbide 60 tooth finish blade and I use it to cut PVC pipe, laminate, and "lexan" (plexiglass-like) without any melting problems.