Antec 3000B: TAC and Athlon64
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Antec 3000B: TAC and Athlon64
I got myself an Antec 300B case and with it comes the air guide in the side panel. This is a telescopic guide that is supposed to be placed over the cpu so that thehas outside air for cooling.
The problem is that for Athlon64 motherboards (or at least my Abit AV8) the telescopic thing only lies over 1/4 of the cpu since the position of the cpu is different to that of P4s.
My question is to anyone who has had similar findings.
Is it worth trying to find a solution to this or is it better to remove the telescopic cone and tape over the side vents?
EDIT: I am using the stock AMD cooler. (I know better/quiter coolers can be had but for now i don't want to spend any more money if possible)
The problem is that for Athlon64 motherboards (or at least my Abit AV8) the telescopic thing only lies over 1/4 of the cpu since the position of the cpu is different to that of P4s.
My question is to anyone who has had similar findings.
Is it worth trying to find a solution to this or is it better to remove the telescopic cone and tape over the side vents?
EDIT: I am using the stock AMD cooler. (I know better/quiter coolers can be had but for now i don't want to spend any more money if possible)
okay time to get the screw driver out and get some nice clear tape for the holes.Tibors wrote:The TAC is only "needed" for really hot processors. Wth an A64 you should be able to get sufficient cooling without it.
My current tempratures is 39 for cpu idling and 43 when I'm surfing and stuff.
I'm still trying to work out whether this is the actual temprature or if its due to the Abit AV8 being unable to accurately measure tempratures.
It may also be due to me putting on a wee bit too much thermal paste
Still debating whether to turn on cool and quiet
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It was off by default so I have yet to turn it on.meglamaniac wrote:The only question I can think to ask at this point is why would you turn it off?
Also the AbitAV8 has the OCGuru which allows you to over (or under) clock as the machine is running. So you can give extra juice to those applications that need it.
I'm not sure how CoolNQuiet will affect this
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I have the CPU duct removed and that intake covered on my 3000B. Since it was not well aligned (maybe 20% overlap) with the 7000 on my DFI, it seemed like it did not help and may have actually hurt temperatures a bit. The rear exhaust fan seemed to vent that air directly.
I have left the lower intake uncovered as it seems to really help case and VGA temperatures for me. I may try to create a bit of a duct from this intake to the intake on my VF700.
Anyone want to trade a 3000B side panel for a 3000BQE side panel?
I have left the lower intake uncovered as it seems to really help case and VGA temperatures for me. I may try to create a bit of a duct from this intake to the intake on my VF700.
Anyone want to trade a 3000B side panel for a 3000BQE side panel?
NewEgg has the fanless Northbridge Gigabyte:HolyBastard wrote:Are you saying that most features of the SLK3000B becomes useless for an athlon 64? Also, I plan on getting a 6600Gt wich are supposed to be kind of noisy (and I can't find the fanless gigabyte) so wouldn't there be a better case without TAC desing to reduce noise?
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductde ... 279&DEPA=1
Just remember, if you're going to use the Thermalright 120, you need to order the steel backplate for it. (Something NewEgg doesn't carry...)
Sure, on the Thermalright XP-120 mobo compatability webpage:Tibors wrote: Care to elaborate
http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main ... 120_k8.htm
they point out that Gigabyte uses a plastic backplate on thier 939 boards that needs replacement with a steel version. ($3.00 US retail):
http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main ... m#acc_k8bp
Unfortunately NewEgg doesn't offer it, so I couldn't purchase it at the same time as the motherboard and heatsink, but I found that 3DCool.com does sell the part:
http://www.3dcool.com/Details.asp?cid=27&id=1123
The shipping cost more than the backplate. But at a total cost of $7.60 (shiped USPS) its not that bad.
I have an ASUS A8V board in my 3000B, and the CPU duct covers a little over half the fan, maybe 60%, so I leave it open. It really depends on the motherboard I think. Fanless 6600GT graphics cards are kinda hard to come by. I'm currently using a fanless Gigabyte 6800NU (non-ultra). Don't recall the exact temps right now and not at my computer, but I think the GPU doesn't get past 75 during gaming. Here it is at NewEgg:HolyBastard wrote:Are you saying that most features of the SLK3000B becomes useless for an athlon 64? Also, I plan on getting a 6600Gt wich are supposed to be kind of noisy (and I can't find the fanless gigabyte) so wouldn't there be a better case without TAC desing to reduce noise?
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDe ... 142&depa=1
I also found a 6600GT passively cooled at NewEgg, but its out of stock:
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDe ... 179&depa=1
BigDonut, I turned Cool n' Quiet on and it cut my CPU temps from 44 idle to 39 idle. Just make sure that you have it on. You have to install the driver, change the BIOS settings, and change Windows settings to get it to work. Otherwise, you'll still be running at max frequency. Took me awhile of fiddling and head scratching before I got out the manual and figured out all the little settings.
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this is a very loud suggestion. Sides of cases should be solid at least, and better yet, covered with soundproofing junk.Lourdes wrote:I was thinking of replacing my duct with an exhaust fan, maybe angled a little because it's not directly over the CPU. Might be a nuiance if you want to open the case however.
I have learned (sitting here right now with one) how terrible negative pressure can be in a geared towards quiet system.
Would you care to elaborate on the seemingly direct relation between negative pressure and noise? While you're at it, could you please enlighten us on how negative pressure is a bad thing from a silencentric point-of-view?~El~Jefe~ wrote:I have learned (sitting here right now with one) how terrible negative pressure can be in a geared towards quiet system.
Sarcasm aside, I don't think your statement holds much merit... but I suppose I should be glad it hasn't been written in caps. Positive and negative pressure systems can be made quiet just as well as balanced airflow rigs IMHO. However, I have found that side panel fans can be disruptive to the airflow in a case, especially when you have low airflow (i.e., undervolted case fans). Second, they add a direct noise path from the fan to your ears which is generally a bad idea unless the fan is all but inaudible. Finally, a side panel fan works best when it is used for spot cooling (like the cpu or gpu) and that in turn works better with intake fans than with exhaust fans.
By connecting a side fan with a 3pin extension wire, you can easily slide out the side panel with the fan still connected and either put the panel somewhere close or disconnect the wire at the extension point... so that nuisance can be quickly remedied.
Nope not sure it does. "default" settings for me are FSB of 204Mhz so I can slow that to 200MHz and reduce all the voltages. not really underclocking I suppose.burcakb wrote:Are you SURE it allows "under"clocking? as mine sure doesn't - only overclockBigDonut wrote:Also the AbitAV8 has the OCGuru which allows you to over (or under) clock as the machine is running.
In the bios you can set the multiplier to be low though. HAvent really played with it however.
Managed to get cool n quiet running and it has made a difference to tempratures. I had forgotten to change windows power management to minimal, so it meant cool n quiet never kicked in.
I'm going to remove my cone on the case as it definetly isnt providning anything for the athlon64. Will probably tape up both side vents to see how tempratures go.
There is a definite feeling of cool air from the lower vent so it may be doing something.
MAy try some foam over the vents to help with the sound too
I still think its an excellent case and well worth the money IMHO